Sewing Culottes
By Making Your Own Pattern

Page 2-2

Sewing

1. Mark the Centre Front and Back Pleats by drawing a line with the straight of grain, 2-4" away (depending on what you used) from the crotch seam line, and as long as 1/2 way down your belly or backside, and sew.

2. Marks front pleats with 9 lines (after the large pleat) at 1" intervals.

3. Sew crotch line, finish edge. Pin the fronts and backs of the inner legs, using the bottom of the crotch seam as a matching point, sew the seam and finish the edge. This is one continuous line from bottom of hem of one leg to bottom of hem on the other leg.

4. Align centre of crotch seams with centre of pleats, pin and baste in place.

 

5. Now create front pleats by pinning the first line with the third line, then fold it inwards in behind the larger Centre Front pleat, use the 4th and 6 lines to create the next one, and the 7th and 9th lines for last. The pleats will be pointed to the side seams on the outside (as shown), but to the centre front on the inside. In this picture, they have already been pinned, then basted.

Note: Pleats can be stitched down from the topside to flatten appearance, which is especially pleasing with heavier fabrics. See first page.

6. If you have side seams to sew, sew now.

7. Fold the waistband in half on the length, then join the two short ends, sewing the side seam but, leaving an opening to insert elastic later.



8. Pin waistband to culottes (pinning side that has no opening), stitch.

9. Flip waistband and all waist seams up, top-stitch close to edge of waistband, slightly tugging at waistband to ensure seam is laid flat.

 

10. Fold waistband down, carefully pin in place, stitch in "ditch" of waistband seam to secure.

11. Hemming: Lay culottes on flat surface with inner leg seam in centre. Cut off excess triangle as shown.

12. Fold culottes with inner leg seam (and side seams if any) now on the side, and trim to make nice curve, as shown. You may you to fold in a few places like this to the hem even. Do this for both legs, but compare both inside leg seams to make sure they are the same measurement, and adjust accordingly, as well as side seams.
 

         
 

13. Turn up hem desired depth (usually 1/4" rolled hem, or 1/2 with a serged or zig-zagged edge.

14. Cut 1" elastic 2-4" smaller than waist measurement. Insert elastic into waistband, stitch ends closed. Zig zag over opening to seal.

Instructions for Culottes With Yoke

Follow most of the steps for the previous, but making the waistband section as follows:

Yoke = 1/2 Belly + 4 1/2"

(Measurement 1/2 way down your belly (M) + 3 1/2" for waistband, + 1/2" Seam Allowance

Deduct the 1/2 Belly measurement from the crotch length to create the remaining bottom pattern piece.

It will look like a stunted version of the previous pattern.

Hope you enjoy your culottes!



By Angela B. Trenholm, 695 Eastbourne Road, Kelowna, BC, V1X 5L1
E-mail: trenholms@earnestlycontending.com
Copyright March 2003

These instructions may be distributed freely, at no cost only.
Please include this cover sheet with my contact information so I may be contacted for any questions or concerns.

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